Patagonia is a place that I consider truly wild. It is a location that I associate with sweeping vistas which are interrupted by the jagged peaks of the Chilean Andes. Torres del Paine is probably the landmark of Chilean Patagonia and it easily one of, if not my favourite location to photograph in the world.
There is something about this untamed area that just makes me smile. And whilst it is a rugged habitat, it is – in my opinion – absolutely stunning. Icy aquamarine glacial lakes rest within valleys of towering black rock marked by snowy peaks. It’s these dramatic landscapes that draw so many people here particularly in the summer months. During the summer season (December to February), many people flock to this picturesque part of the world to enjoy a multitude of hikes and activities that take advantage of various viewpoints so tourists can see the most beautiful parts of the park in as short a time as possible.
However, there are some people – myself included – who much prefer to make their way to this Tolkienesque landscape in the winter season (June to August) when there is more chance of snow on the ground creating a perfect contrast of colour between the habitat’s apex predator and the landscape behind. I am of course talking about the puma. They go by many names including mountain lion, cougar, panther and of course puma. These large cats are the second largest feline in the Americas (with the jaguar being the largest) with the largest individuals being found in Chilean and Argentinian Patagonia. Within the landscape of Torres del Paine in Chile, there are a number of pumas that have grown to be tolerant of humans often allowing for sightings to be just a few metres away.
Of course, habituation is occasionally a subject of controversy in the world of wildlife travel, however, the reality in this area is that the majority of Patagonia is farming and ranch land and for many years pumas were persecuted by farmers to protect livestock. By tourists adding monetary value to these beautiful cats they are being saved from potentially being shot by land owners. In fact, many minds have now been changed about how the pumas of this unique area are viewed. This even extends to some ranches (or estancias as they are known locally) allowing tourists onto their land to photograph and view habituated pumas. Whatever your view on habituation, it can’t be denied that tourism has saved many pumas in this area.
Seeing these big cats in their natural habitat going about their business is nothing short of a privilege in my mind and every sighting is as memorable as the last. To this day I still remember walking over the brow of a hill, lifting my Noctivid 10×42 binoculars and seeing the sleek silhouette of a wild puma gliding through the undergrowth. These cats move so elegantly and effortlessly through this environment it is genuinely awe-inspiring to the extent that I almost forget to lift the camera at times.
But, of course, pumas aren’t the only wildlife highlight of the area. Andean condors rule the sky, soaring overhead looking for carcasses to scavenge, hairy armadillos scurry along tracks and through gaps in the dense undergrowth and grey foxes trot along charcoal tarmac checking for road kill and skipping through fields scanning for small rodents to feast on. Guanacos stand atop ridges scanning for their predators whilst enjoying the grasses of their alpine sanctuary. Upland geese are plentiful and fill the fields throughout the region and make for brilliant subjects against dramatic backdrops.
To summarise my rambling about how much I love this place, I have yet to travel to somewhere so unique in the fact that it seems such a harsh place to reside but one that I would happily never leave myself. The mix of incredible jaw-dropping vistas and life-changing wildlife experiences. I cannot shout loud enough about how much I love this place and I hope to re-visit soon.
To see more of Ben’s work, visit his website: www.bensutcliffephoto.com – and keep up to date with Ben over on Instagram